Ordinaire is a nest for afternoon drifters. It doubles as a bar and wineshop, and those who go browsing for bottles can’t help but notice the paperbacks tucked in between the labels: A Clockwork Orange, Out of Africa, Lolita. Something about the presence of those pages coaxes you to linger with fellow hooky-playing professionals. Maybe you don’t recognize the names scribbled on the blackboard (Jordi Llorens, Hervé Villemade), or maybe you do because these days you follow natural-wine vignerons the way you used to follow bands from Seattle.